Giro d’Italia 2009

The 100th anniversary of the Giro d’Italia, which first ran in 1909, symbolically starts on May 9. The presentation for the centenary Giro was announced from the golden gilded La Fenice Theater in Venice, restored to its original splendor after a terrible fire in 1998. It’s an edition filled with symbolism, of rebirth and rebuilding after disaster. Two of the heroes who will be battling it out on the road both have had to struggle with their own personal dramas: Lance’s challenge with cancer and his miraculous recovery, Ivan Basso’s return to racing after two years of disqualification and rehabilitation. Other big names, Carlos Sastre, Damiano Cunego, Danilo DiLuca, Gilberto Simoni, and perhaps even Cadel Evans, will be in the hunt for the pink jersey, while specialists like Fabian Cancellara will challenge on the time-trials.

The stages have been designed to give homage to the great legends of cycling, to historic postwar challenges that great racers heroically faced in a country where asphalt on the roads was considered a luxury. The Giro and Italian cycling wants desperately to regain credibility after the disastrous damage caused by doping scandals. In fact, last year’s winner Contador was able to claim victory without even winning a stage because his main adversaries in the mountains, Sella and Riccó, tested positive and were expelled! Hence, Giro 2009 will be a race of superlatives and hyperbole, all aimed at regaining the fame and glory of the past and surpassing the expectations of fans worldwide.

What do the racers say about the Giro? Lance will be riding it for the first time. He’s lived in Italy before and is pleased that he’ll finally be able to participate. It’ll be a real jolt back into reality when they hit the Dolomites in the first stages: in the Tour it’s in the warmth of midsummer and there are usually 10 days of relatively flat stages to get in rhythm before the mountains. One of his concerns is the weather in early May, it can be cold and snowy. He even suggests that Basso is the favorite, reiterating the view he expressed when he retired.

We’re proposing 2 separate weeks, one focusing on the Veneto & Dolomites, May 9–16, the other on Piemonte (Piedmont), May 16–23.

Week 1—Veneto & Dolomites

For the first week, we’re especially lucky that the initial stages are right our backyard! How convenient and appropriate. Convenient because we needn’t make any special arrangements to go to view stages: all are easily accessible right from our home base. Appropriate because the choice of the Veneto region underscores the its preeminence in the country’s cycling tradition. Our favorite rides—the Prosecco wine country leading to Valdobbiadene, the famous climb to La Rosina above Marostica (the “chess town”) and passo Croce D’Aune on the way to San Martino di Castrozza—are all part of the race. It will indeed be a very special year, a tribute to the Veneto, to the spirit of cycling and to the riders who have inspired, motivated and become legends in a sport that is a metaphor for life: sacrifices and fatigue will eventually lead to victory, or at least to the conquest of a mountain, obstacle or challenge that is in our way.

Thu 7:
Fly in to Venice Marco Polo airport ahead of the Giro’s kickoff on Saturday and avoid the crush. Frequent express shuttle buses connect the airport with Venezia-Mestre train station, from which there are convenient direct trains to Bassano del Grappa. We offer complimentary transfer from the Bassano train station to our hotel, which will be your home for the week. Depending on your arrival time, after setting up your bike, you may be able take an afternoon spin to stretch your legs. Welcome dinner at the hotel.
Fri 8:
We’ll do a local ride, perhaps taking the ciclopista del Brenta (Brenta river bike path) to climb up the switchbacks of Primolano, passing by the remains of a WWI Austrian fortification to loop back via scenic Lake Corlo and the descent down a narrow, twisty gorge back to the river valley. This loop offers more climbing options for those who’d like, such as Col del Gallo or Cima Campo. Dinner out at one of our favorite restaurants.
Sat 9:
Take the train directly from Bassano to Venice Santa Lucia station, just 70–90 minutes by train. Immediately outside Santa Lucia station you can catch a water bus (vaporetto) to the Lido island, or even walk through Venice to enjoy its sights and sounds and board a vaporetto closer to the Lido. Find your spot along the Lido’s time-trial course to watch, before taking a vaporetto back to the train station, and the train to Bassano. Dinner at the hotel.
Sun 10:
While the Giro does an easy leg from Jesolo to Trieste, we’ll go on a local ride… Perhaps a spin out to the picturesque hill town of Asolo and a visit to the Renaissance Palladian Villa Barbaro at Maser, with some optional hills for those who seek the challenge. Dinner at the hotel.
Mon 11:
We’ll ride out to the Prosecco wine country, along the rolling foothills of the Mt. Grappa massif, to arrive in plenty of time for the Giro’s stage finish in Valdobbiadene. Dinner at the hotel.
Tue 12:
One option is to visit Marostica, the “Live Human Chess Match” castle-town and do the classic La Rosina climb just outside town to watch the racers as they come by the church dedicated to cyclists. Another alternative is to climb to Croce d’Aune to see the race there. This pass is where a monument to Tullio Campagnolo commemorates the freezing conditions in a Giro stage that cost him the race here and inspired him to develop the quick-release hub. The last option, for the really ambitious, is to ride up to San Martino di Castrozza to see the stage finish. Dinner out at another of our favorite restaurants.
Wed 13:
With a minimum of 4 participants—and weather permitting—we can arrange, at a modest additional cost, transport for riders and bikes to the vicinity of Alpe di Siusi so that you can ride up the climb to see the stage finish. Farewell dinner at the hotel.
Thu 14:
We’ll bring you to the train station in Bassano del Grappa after breakfast to bid you arrivederci!

Pricing and services: $1,700/person double-occupancy. Add $300 for a single room. Price includes transfers from/to Bassano del Grappa train station, all breakfasts and dinners, Italian Basso or Wilier road bikes with Campy Ergo 3x9 drivetrains, and guided rides. Optional taxi service between Venice airport and our hotel can be arranged; the cost is approximately €120 each way. Participation limited to a maximum of 12 people. Please contact us first to verify availability.
Prices are subject to change without prior notice to adjust for significant variations in the US dollar-Euro exchange rate.

  • Stage 1: Venezia–Lido TTT Sa 5/9
  • Stage 2: Jesolo–Trieste Su 5/10
  • Stage 3: Grado–Valdobbiadene Mo 5/11
  • Stage 4: Padova–San Martino di Castrozza Tu 5/12
  • Stage 5: San Martino di Castrozza–Alpe di Siusi We 5/13

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Week 2—Piemonte & Liguria

The heart of the 2nd week takes place in Piemonte and Liguria. Piemonte is home of cycling legend Fausto Coppi. In fact, the Torino–Arenzano stage goes by his hometown of Castellania, where his house is now a museum dedicated to his life and career. The Cuneo–Pinerolo stage commemorates the legendary 1949 Giro stage won by Coppi with an 11 minute margin over his perennial rival Gino Bartali after a solo breakaway lasting 192 km.

April 8, 2009—unable to have a ban on traffic on the descent from Col de Larche into France removed, nor to ensure a safe alternative crossing at Colle dell’Agnello into France, nor be assured of radio communications in France, the Giro organizers have regrettfully revised the Cuneo–Pinerolo stage to remain entirely in Italy. The stage now features a climb to Moncenisio, while retaining the Sestrière climb in Fausto Coppi’s memory.

The final leg in northwestern Italy is the time-trial from Sestri Levante to Riomaggiore. This is a tough one, as time-trials go. Not only is it not flat (2 KOM/GPM locations), but also it’s long, at 61.7 km. These characteristics may a gift to Lance, playing to his strengths as a time-trialer.

Sat 16:
We meet you at the airport in Nice in the morning to transfer you to the home base of Agile Compass (our frequent collaborator) in Piemonte. In the afternoon, time permitting we’ll set up your bikes and take a short ride in the vicinity to check them out and stretch our legs.
Sun 17:
We’ll do a local ride with lots of options for climbs and plan to be back at the hotel by early afternoon to see the circuit race stage in Milan on the hotel’s wide-screen TV.
Mon 18:
Rest day for the Giro. Weather permitting, we could do the Colle della Maddalena, the first of 5 climbs on tomorrow’s stage.
Tue 19:
We’ll drive to the vicinity of Pinerolo, then ride to Sestrière to catch the race as it comes over the top.
Wed 20:
We’ll drive part way, then ride to Novi Ligure and Castellania. The van will sag to Novi Ligure, where we’ll stay for 2 nights. Castellania is where Fausto Coppi’s home has been turned into a museum about his life and racing career. Novi Ligure has the Museo dei Campionissimi, an ultramodern bicycle museum. Today’s Giro stage passes by Castellania and through Novi Ligure, but since it’s a fairly flat stage, the peloton will pass by in a flash.
Thu 21:
We’ll drive to the vicinity of Sestri Levante in order to see the time-trial from Sestri to Riomaggiore. You may choose to see the riders start in Sestri, or ride out on the course to find a spot to watch from. The first 15 km are all uphill.
Fri 22:
Leisurely return from Novi Ligure to Chiusa di Pesio, including a ride through the Langhe wine country.
Sat 23:
We transfer you to Nice airport in the morning to bid you arrivederci & au revoir!

Pricing and services: $1,700/person double-occupancy. Add $300 for single room. Price includes morning transfer from/to Nice airport in France, all breakfasts and dinners, and guided rides. Inquire about available rental road bikes at additional cost. Minimum of 4 participants required, maximum limited to 8. Please contact us first to verify availability.
Prices are subject to change without prior notice to adjust for significant variations in the US dollar-Euro exchange rate.

  • Stage 10: Cuneo–Pinerolo Tu 5/19
  • Stage 11: Torino–Arenzano We 5/20
  • Stage 12: Sestri Levante–Riomaggiore ITT Th 5/21

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